Foil Drive Masterclass | Tips and Tricks for Surf Foiling
Foil Drive’s latest surf masterclass offers valuable insights and practical tips to enhance your surf foiling experience. Paul from Foil Drive shares his knowledge, focusing on techniques to use thrust effectively, improve takeoffs, and navigate waves with precision.
This blog breaks down the key lessons and actionable steps from the masterclass, ensuring you can maximize your time on the water.
1. Getting Started with Foil Drive
Preparation is Key:
Check the propeller bolts, battery grease, nose cone, and all bolts before heading into the water.
Ensure the throttle is off while walking your board into the water to avoid accidental activation.
Carrying Your Board:
Grip the fuselage and wingtip to control the board effectively. Tilt it slightly to allow waves to pass over easily.
Choosing the Right Equipment:
Paul rides a custom Jimmy Lewis 4’11” board with a NoLimitz V2 M mast, paired with Code 850S and a 158 tail wing for maximum performance.
2. Navigating Waves Safely
Wave Absorption Technique:
Use your knees to absorb wave energy. This prevents the board from breaching and keeps the pod submerged.
Stay low and flexible to reduce the impact of oncoming waves.
Avoid White Water:
White water can be unpredictable and aggressive. If you’re not comfortable handling it, peel off and fall safely.
3. Techniques for Effective Takeoffs
The J-Turn Method:
Pretend to catch a wave, turn off, and let the wave’s energy lift the foil.
Ideal for smaller boards or less powerful conditions.
Flat Water Takeoffs:
Keep the nose flat and use controlled throttle to gradually lift the board. Avoid overpowering, which can destabilize the board.
Paddle-Assisted Takeoffs:
Hold the throttle controller in one hand while paddling. Use minimal throttle to maintain control during the initial lift.
4. Peeling Off Waves with Control
Smooth Transitions:
Pre-engage the motor at around 60–65% throttle before dropping it into the water to ensure a seamless transition off a wave.
Avoid high throttle, which can cause sudden surges and disturb others in the lineup.
Angle Your Approach:
Merge with waves at a slight angle rather than head-on for better control and more time to choose your line.
5. Optimizing Your Ride
Less is More:
Use subtle throttle adjustments for smoother rides and better control.
Avoid dragging the pod by maintaining proper height above the water.
Positioning on the Board:
Experiment with mast box placement for optimal balance. Avoid having the mast too far back, which can hinder control.
Diagonal Returns:
Head back to the lineup diagonally to reduce wave impact and save battery life when paddling against headwinds.
6. Duck Diving and Wave Management
Effective Duck Dives:
Hold the nose of the board firmly and give a slight throttle to power under waves.
Keep the board flat and controlled to avoid getting pulled back by the wave’s energy.
Timing is Everything:
Wait for manageable gaps between waves to duck dive effectively and reach the backline safely.
7. Essential Surf Etiquette
Respect Other Surfers:
Avoid riding close to traditional surfers. Utilize your foil’s capabilities to catch waves further out or in uncrowded areas.
Safety First:
Always turn the throttle off when walking the board in or out of the water.
If unsure about navigating white water or crowded conditions, prioritize safety over performance.
Key Takeaways
Preparation and Safety: Double-check your gear, and always turn the throttle off when entering or exiting the water.
Technique Over Power: Use wave energy and controlled thrust for efficient takeoffs and smoother rides.
Adaptability: Adjust your riding style based on wave conditions, board size, and personal comfort.
Patience: Progress takes time. Start slow, master the basics, and gradually push your limits.
Surf Etiquette: Respect others in the water and use your foil to access uncrowded waves.
Foil Drive’s surf masterclass highlights the importance of blending technique, equipment, and safety for an enjoyable foiling experience. These tips and tricks, honed over years of practice, can help both beginners and advanced foilers refine their skills and maximize their sessions on the water. Whether it’s mastering the J-turn or perfecting your duck dive, each lesson aims to make surf foiling accessible, fun, and safe for all.
Thu, 16 Jan 2025 14:48:16 +0000
Appletree Surfboards and Foil Drive | Testing to See Which Board is the Most Fun!
Appletree Surfboards and Foil Drive joined forces to create an informative and exciting day of testing. With a diverse crew of riders, a range of board shapes, and Foil Drive setups, the goal was simple—figure out how different boards and skill levels impact the Foil Drive experience.
From beginners to seasoned experts, the day was packed with learnings, challenges, and plenty of fun.
Riders and Their Setups
Dominic (Foil Drive Europe Rep): A seasoned expert in Foil Drive, Dominic brought his knowledge to the test.
Freddy (Beginner Foil Driver): A versatile foiler with experience in wing, prone, and kite foiling, Freddy was excited to tackle Foil Drive for the first time.
John (Downwind Specialist): Known for his downwind content, John was ready to push his skills with Foil Drive and test the boundaries of board and foil compatibility.
Each rider had a unique setup and perspective to contribute to the testing process.
Testing the Boards | The Journey Begins
The team tested a range of boards, from large downwind shapes to compact surf-style boards. The approach was systematic: riders started on easier, larger boards and worked down to smaller, more challenging designs.
The Big Downwind Board
Freddy began on a large, stable downwind board. While it provided a solid platform, transitioning into foiling presented unexpected challenges. The key takeaway? Wide, flat boards offer stability but may lack responsiveness.
The Slice V3 (60L and 80L)
The Slice V3 emerged as a beginner-friendly option. Its shorter, wider shape provided lateral stability and planed easily. Freddy found it easier to manage transitions and balance on this board compared to the downwind board. John echoed similar sentiments, praising its ability to handle light wind and flat water.
Skipper Downwind Prone Board
This sleek, narrow board stole the show. Its exceptional glide and speed made it the top choice for more advanced riders like Dominic and John. However, the narrow design posed challenges for beginners due to reduced lateral stability.
Key Insights from the Testing
Board Selection Based on Skill Level:
Beginners benefit from wider boards with flat hulls, like the Slice V3.
Advanced riders thrive on narrower, high-performance boards like the Skipper Downwind Prone Board.
Foil Size Matters:
Larger foils, such as the Axis Spitfire 1180, offer easier lift and control, making them suitable for beginners and intermediate riders.
Smaller foils require more precision and speed, catering to advanced riders looking for maximum maneuverability.
Foil Drive Adjustments:
Transitioning from powered to non-powered foiling requires careful weight distribution. Beginners often struggle with keeping weight back during this transition.
Smaller boards amplify this challenge, as they demand higher speeds to get on foil.
Advanced Challenges:
Dominic's attempt with a 37L board highlighted the limits of small boards for heavier riders. The lack of planing surface made takeoff nearly impossible without perfect technique.
Rider Reflections
Freddy:
The Slice V3 was a game-changer. Its stability allowed her to gain confidence and refine her skills. While the Skipper Downwind board intrigued her, it proved too advanced for a first-time Foil Driver.
John:
Loved the speed and glide of the Skipper Downwind board but acknowledged its steep learning curve. The Slice V3 provided a comfortable transition and a fun alternative for less challenging conditions.
Dominic:
Appreciated the versatility of the boards but emphasized the importance of matching the board size to the rider’s skill and goals. The Skipper Downwind stood out for advanced use, while the Slice V3 remained the go-to beginner's recommendation.
Conclusion | Picking the Right Setup
The testing day highlighted the importance of pairing the right board and foil setup with the rider's skill level. While the Skipper Downwind Prone Board dominated in performance, the Slice V3 offered accessibility and ease, making it ideal for beginners.
Dominic summed it up best: “The right board can make or break your Foil Drive experience.”
For those new to Foil Drive, starting with a stable board like the Slice V3 ensures a smoother learning curve. Advanced riders, on the other hand, will appreciate the speed and glide of the Skipper Downwind board for tackling challenging conditions and smaller foils.
Whether you’re a seasoned foiler or just starting out, Foil Drive and Appletree Surfboards have something to offer every rider.
Please email us with any questions that you may have. We're always happy to help!
Foil Drive Max vs. Slim | The Battery Breakdown For the Everyday Rider
Judging by the number of calls we get about the Gen2 Foil Drive, it's a popular choice for foilers wanting to get more out of their sessions, but the number of battery options can be a little overwhelming. There are two main units to choose from, each with two battery sizes (three if you count the travel batteries, though it's pretty obvious when to choose those). Ryan and Aaron are here to clear up the confusion and help you confidently choose the right combination for your Foil Drive needs.
Foil Drive Max vs. Slim
The most obvious difference between the Max and Slim units is the thickness. As the "Slim" implies, it's quite a bit thinner than the Max. But what are the pros and cons of each?
Max:
Pros
More power/torque
More runtime
Cons
More weight
More drag
Slim:
Pros
Lighter weight
Minimal drag
Cons
Not as powerful
Shorter battery life
So what does that mean for you? We always recommend the Max for newer and intermediate foilers. The weight and drag are not going to override the advantages of more power and runtime. The typical rider is going to make heavier use of the assist, and with the Max's battery being larger than the Slim's, you're going to get more time on the water for fun and progression.
There can be a tendency to look at the two and feel like you need to push yourself toward the Slim since it's the "pro" unit, but that's not necessarily accurate. The Slim is lighter weight and lower profile, which can indeed be important characteristics for advanced foilers, but the Max has more power, which has its own set of advantages for those who need faster acceleration. They're simply different and cater to different types of riders. Take an honest look at your needs and then decide which unit is better suited to meet them.
In addition to the everyday rider and people just learning to foil, the Max is often the top pick for wing foilers, wake foilers, and prone foilers. The Slim may be a good choice for experienced foilers who are already efficient and just need a little boost from time to time, as well as downwind SUP foilers who want a little extra push to get into the swell but are otherwise pretty self-sufficient by pumping and paddling.
Battery: Power/Endurance vs. Sport/Performance
The Max and Slim both come with two nose cones, and that's to accommodate the two sizes of battery that are available with each. The pros and cons tradeoff is pretty simple here: runtime vs. weight and drag. There are a lot of variables when it comes to exactly how much time you'll get on the water with each. Rider and gear weight, conditions, type of riding, and motor usage all play a role in how long each session will be. The thing to notice is that the Power and Endurance batteries are 50 percent larger than their shorter Sport and Performance counterparts, so you'll get that much more time while adding that much more weight and length.
The number one factor for most people is "how long can I ride?" They want to buzz from wave to wave and are looking for that "easy button". So most of the time, the larger battery is going to be the best choice. In fact, a lot of people who purchase a second battery get two of the larger battery so they can quickly swap out mid-session and keep going as long as possible.
That said, there are some good reasons to choose the smaller battery for your unit. If you only power up your Foil Drive occasionally and don't find yourself running low on juice during your session, then the shorter battery is a great way to minimize weight and drag. And there are some boards with a step deck or contours that don't accommodate the longer nose cone well, though there are design files out there to print a shim to support the nose cone if you do want to use the longer battery.
The smaller batteries do cost less than the larger ones, so if you don't need the extended runtime, that can also be a factor in your decision. However, it isn't a huge difference in the overall price of your Foil Drive setup, so if you want the extra time on the water, then going with the larger battery will hopefully not be a dealbreaker for you.
What We're Driving At
A Foil Drive is a great accessory for anyone who wants to get out on their foil, with or without a wing or paddle. If you find yourself with a shoulder injury and need to set aside the wing or paddle for a while, the Foil Drive will pick up the slack. Maybe you haven't got time to pump up a wing or kite and just want to grab a quick lunchtime ride. Maybe the wind isn't there or is too variable. A Foil Drive can save your session.
Each rider is going to need to choose the setup that best suits their needs. While there are many factors that play a role, we do recommend the Foil Drive Max with a Power battery (or two) for most people. The extra power and runtime are well worth the tradeoff in weight and drag for the majority of foilers.
If you're a beginner, more power and more time on the water are going to result in faster progression. When you're learning to kite or wing, you'll often size up to make sure you have enough power to overcome the inefficiencies inherent to new riders, and this is no different. You'll be more successful when you have plenty of power and don't run out of juice just as you're starting to get a feel for it.
Once you're more proficient at foiling, you're just going to want to have fun and ride as long as you can and zip over to as many waves as you can catch. You'll be willing to make the sacrifice of a heavier unit to gain that power and runtime.
It's entirely possible that you'll get so much more on-foil experience with a Foil Drive that you'll progress to the point that you're using it less and dialing back the power when you do kick it on. Perhaps you'll find yourself coming back in with a good charge still on the battery. You might start pushing yourself to learn new maneuvers to the point that you do feel that extra weight on your board.
When the Slim is the right unit for you, you'll probably know it. But if you're on the fence, chances are you'll enjoy the Max more. For some, the Max is a trainer on the path to the most advanced foiling. For others, it's a session extender that lets them stay out longer and catch more waves. Remember that we are always happy to chat with you and listen to what you want to do with your Foil Drive. Then we can suggest which unit and battery we think will be the best fit for you.
Discover Mancora and Negritos | A Kiteboarder's Paradise in Peru!
Have you ever considered traveling to northern Perú for a kite trip? Up until a couple months ago, I hadn't either. I'm Cole from MACkite, and I'm going to share my experience kiting in Perú and give you tips on how to get there, where to stay, and things to do outside of kiting.
When to Go
Northern Perú is an epic spot that you're definitely going to want to put on your list. The kiting is good from about April through December, with the most consistent wind coming in August through November. I was in Máncora, Perú in November and we were riding 9m and 12m kites most of the time. The wind blew on 80% of the days, but in the summer you can expect it to blow closer to 50% of the time.
Riding Spots
Máncora, Perú has a very consistent left-hand wave that you can ride on a twintip. You'll have some mild chop with a bit of flat water off the point near that left-hand wave. When the waves are firing, it's a super fun wave to ride strapless, but when they aren't, it's a great spot to twintip right near town.
About an hour and a half south of Máncora is a spot called Negritos. It has this peeling lefthand wave and side-offshore winds, and it's a world-class spot for strapless riding.
There are other spots as well, but I mainly rode and stayed in Máncora, heading to Negritos when I wanted to go ride that epic wave.
Water Conditions
Expect to wear a 3/2 wetsuit or even a shorty. The water is a balmy 70-72 degrees F, so it's plenty warm and you won't need a winter suit even though you're on the Pacific Ocean. The air temps are also nice, between 65 F at night and up to around 80 F during the day.
How Do I Get There?
The easiest way to get to Northern Peru is to fly into Lima. From there you can either fly into either Talara, a small airport south of Máncora, or fly into Tumbes, which is north of town. From Talara it's about an hour-long shuttle drive to get to Máncora, and from Tumbes it's more like 2-and-a-half hours.
Where to Stay
Once you get to Máncora, there are a ton of places to stay. The place I stayed in on the south end of town was only $45 a night, including the room and food. There are also plenty of little hostels you can stay in, so it's no issue to find housing.
In Negritos there is a cool little kite hotel right in front of the wave. You can stay there and walk right out and go kite every day. There isn't much else in the little town, so this is a good option if you want to get to bed early and hardcore kite every day.
Máncora is a developed town with plenty of little tourist shops and great places to eat. There is also a lighthouse with a very cool overlook on top of the bluff. You can see the kite spot, the surf spot, the sunset, and even whales, which is a super fun thing to do. If you want restaurants and some sort of night life, you should stay in Máncora.
Other Things to Do
In northern Perú the winds are thermal, so it's dead calm in the mornings. In Máncora, that left-hand wave is glass calm, and it's super fun to surf. On the weekends it can get busy, but if you can go during the week the crowds are minimal. Surfing without the wind is a lot of fun, and the wave is beginner-friendly, so you can bring the family and go ride together.
Should I Go?
Northern Perú is a hidden kiting gem. Since not a ton of people know about it, prices are very reasonable. I'd say it's definitely something you should look into for a future trip. Feel free to reach out to us if you'd like to connect and get more info. Happy travels!
Waydoo Evo eFoil Unboxing | Here's Everything You'll Get!
Although the Waydoo Evo is one of the more modestly-priced eFoil options out there, it's still an investment for most people. When you're dropping that kind of cash, it's nice to know ahead of time exactly what you're getting. We get it, so here's Eli to do an unboxing of what will show up with your order!
Remote
Good things come in small packages, and in the smallest one you'll find the remote, charger, remote wrist leash, and instructions for the remote.
Rear Wing
Another small box contains the rear wing for your Evo. It's securely packed in foam to make sure it arrives safe and sound. There's also a user guide for the wing. In fact, each component will include a guide, so be sure to give them a look to get familiar with everything.
Front Wing
A medium-sized box will have the front wing you ordered with your Evo, once again packed securely in foam. The largest is the 1500, and the 1100 will be a bit smaller. They come in fiberglass or carbon, and you can tell them apart because the carbon has a colored stripe along the trailing edge.
Propulsion Unit
In another medium box packed snugly in foam is the propulsion unit. You'll also find your screws, some grease, and an extension for the rear wing bracket. This piece can be used to add stability and balance, but you may not need it since the Evo is already so stable. Still, it's a nice option to lend some extra confidence while you're learning.
Mast
A similarly-sized box will have your choice of mast, wrapped nicely in tubular bubble wrap.
Battery Charger
The charger and wall adapter could come in a couple different sizes of box, depending on whether you upgraded to the invertible fast charger. The standard charger takes about 4 hours to fill a 2300 battery, and the fast charger around half that time.
Battery
This box may show up a day or two later since the battery needs to ship hazmat, which is typically a bit slower. So don't worry if everything doesn't show up all at once. It'll be along shortly, packed securely in foam.
Board
And finally, the big box! That, of course, is your board, and the box size will vary according to which board you went with. Any of the "Plus" boards will include the sensors and GPS, and then your other option is the size. The medium-sized 90L, 154cm Pro board will be just right for most people, but you can go larger for extra stability for, say, a shared family board that'll be used by riders of different sizes and skill levels. The MAX is 130L and 154cm long. You can also go smaller for more advanced riders who want more maneuverability with the Master at 75L and 144cm long.
If you have any questions about your new Waydoo Evo eFoil, whether it's already been dropped off or you still need to order it, just give us a shout and we'll get you taken care of.
Wing Foiling Innovations | Are Booms Really Better Than Handles?
All of a sudden, it seems like wings with booms are everywhere. Maybe you've been to a recent event and noticed that many of the best riders were using them. If they are, should you be? Well, it depends. Like so many gear choices in watersports, it comes down to things like your riding style, weight, experience, and personal preference, among other considerations. So what's the deal with booms, and should your next wing have one?
Benefits of a Boom
A lot of brands are now giving riders the choice to use a boom or handles with their wing. Rather than simply designing a wing to include one or the other, it's an option, which really has no downside. Some even have a choice of hard or soft handles for those who go that route. So why would you choose the boom option?
It seems like many who prefer booms won't consider a wing without that option. While Tucker and Jeff are of the opinion that finding the right wing design is more important, there are some good reasons to insist on a boom.
If you want to ride freestyle and do handle passes, a boom is a must. You can't really do a Back Mobe with handles unless you've added a bridge between your handles to make it like a boom. If you're riding powered up and jumping, a boom really is better-suited for that. That's why you're seeing so many pro riders on booms now.
If you're crossing over to winging from windsurfing, you may feel more at home on a boom. Anything that makes that transition go more smoothly is going to be a good thing for you.
In some cases, but not all, the boom can reduce the overall weight of the wing since it's only got two attachment points rather than the four that two handles will have. However, there is the section of boom where there would be open air between the handles to also take into account, so it really depends on the specific wing whether or not you'll see any weight savings and whether it's significant enough to matter.
There is also the argument about whether a boom is easier for beginners. On the one hand, you can grab it anywhere, which really is nice when you're focused on other things like foot placement. But that exact benefit can also get you into trouble if you don't yet have a feel for the best spots to grab on. If you grab in the wrong place, sure, you've still got a grip on the wing, but you can also get yanked off your board. Handles limit your options to the prime areas to hold the wing, and you can't be off from the sweet spot by more than a couple inches. Handles can help you learn where those spots are before you switch over to a boom and the experimentation it allows.
When you do decide to give a boom a go, watch experienced riders on that same setup at the beach or in videos. When riding one-handed, they won't always be holding the boom dead center, so see where they grip the boom and how they use it. That'll give you a jumping off point for your own progression.
A boom can also add rigidity to the center strut. While some riders like their wing to be able to flex a bit, the extra support can be a good thing for heavier riders or when riding overpowered. If you don't have the budget for the stiffer materials like Aluula, a boom can make your wing more responsive in those situations.
A fun little trick that's only possible on a boom is to hook your harness right onto the bar itself rather than a harness line.
Benefits of Handles
With so much to love about a boom, why might you want handles instead? If you travel, a boom might not be an option for you due to space limitations. You can pack your wing down small, even without removing the handles, and if you take them off, you can make your wing more compact still.
Many riders also find handles more ergonomic. Booms run along a single plane, while handles can be angled for each hand and make for a much more comfortable session. If your find that your tendons hurt after riding a boom, try switching to handles to see if that alleviates the issue.
Some handles also sit closer to the strut than booms. This can make you feel more grounded or connected to the wing. You can feel its movements and articulation better and respond to that.
Some handles have gotten longer to give you the best of both worlds. There isn't a big gap between them anymore so they're not hard to find when coming off a wave or switching hands. Often, the front handle is longer than the back handle. This gives you more grip options based on your weight and the power with which you're riding. It also lets you pistol grip further forward where there is less power, allowing you to maneuver the wing more easily and maintain control.
Handles can also give you more options for customization. Some brands have gone beyond just "boom or handles?" and given you more than one handle option. Hard handles, soft handles, semi-rigid handles, different sizes of handles... Each will provide a different experience to let you fine-tune your wing. Tucker's a fan of pairing a hard front handle with a soft rear handle.
I Can't Choose... Help!
Unless you're riding in a very specialized discipline like freestyle where is boom is a necessity or you're traveling and can't pack a boom, there may not be a wrong answer. Tucker has a slight preference for handles, but he's not upset when he's on a boom and rather enjoys one-handing the boom when he's coming in on a toeside tack and in small waves.
If you choose a wing with a long front handle, you'll get a lot of the flexibility of a boom with the ergonomics and packability of handles. The line between the two is blurring, and that's not a bad thing.
If you're used to riding handles and are thinking about switching to a boom, try to borrow a wing with a boom from a buddy or attend an event like MACkite's KoGL Test Fest where you can demo different setups.
Ultimately, Tucker and Jeff both feel that, for most people, it's more important to find the right wing for your conditions and riding style than the handle choice is. In some ways, there is a bigger difference between hard and soft handles than between hard handles and a boom. If you're really on the fence and can't try before you buy, choose a wing that lets you swap handles for a boom, and then you can always swap them out instead of buying a whole new wing.
Our wing crew is always delighted to chat with you if you want more guidance on your decision. At the end of the day, it's about having fun on the water and sharing the stoke!
Why Downsizing Your Foil Beats Switching to a Smaller Wing Foil Board
When you embark on your foiling journey, it's all about big, stable gear that'll get you up and riding. Falling and getting back on your board takes a lot of time and energy, and the less of that you do, the faster you'll be successful and begin to progress.
Now you're on foil and cruising without too much trouble, and you're starting to think about that next step. Your buddies are on mid-size boards and downwind boards, so you're thinking it might be time for you to pick one up. We get it. Those starter boards are pretty voluminous at 110, 120, even 140 liters. They're stable, but not terribly efficient, and downsizing your board seems like the next step. Time out... we've got some questions for you to consider first.
What Size Board Are You On?
Just how big is your current board? That 115 or 125 liter board gave you the stability you needed to learn, and obviously you're hooked now if you're looking to downsize. Most people could move to a 90 liter board at this point, but let's look at a couple other things first.
What's Your Skill Level?
You're doing a good job of getting up on foil and cruising around, but can you turn and jibe and stay on foil? In both directions? Can you stay dry for 20 minutes? If you're still working on these progression milestones, your board most likely isn't the issue.
What Size Foil Are You On?
That 1800 - 2000cm2 low aspect foil makes for a great introduction to the sport. It's stable and doesn't require much speed to get you flying. But it's not agile and it's got a lot of drag. If you're having trouble turning without sinking back into the water but you're not having any issues getting up, you might need to look at your foil.
Downsize Your Foil
Downsizing your foil while staying on the same board is going to help you progress in a couple of ways that downsizing your board won't. That big board will still give you a nice, stable platform while you get a feel for your smaller foil. You'll be more stable as you get up to the faster speed you'll need to take off, and you'll have more control once you are up. The last thing you need right now is a tippy, rocky platform. Hang on to that big board for just a little while longer.
The smaller foil is going to feel much more nimble as you jibe and it'll cut through the water with a lot less resistance. Suddenly you'll start nailing your turns without coming off foil.
What Size Foil Is Right?
Most riders will do well on a 1200 - 1400cm2 foil with a bit higher aspect than their starter foil. It'll be just the right combination of speed and agility while still being accessible to a "Budding Advanced Beginner". You'll start riding longer in mixed conditions as you build the confidence and the right skills to progress. You'll be able to come into your jibes at a higher speed so you won't sink down as you turn and maybe even start pulling into some waves. Speed is more about the foil than the board once you're up and out of the water.
Be Patient with Yourself
When you make the shift to a smaller, higher aspect foil, it's not going to be as stable and you'll need more speed, time, and energy to get up. Keeping your stable, familiar board is going to help a lot, but you will still find yourself falling more as you get used to your new foil. That's ok. You'll reap the rewards of your smaller foil soon and you'll have a blast unleashing the progression you'll see from it.
When Should I Downsize My Board?
While you'll see more progression from a smaller foil than a smaller board, we're not saying that you shouldn't downsize your board. Once you're nailing your jibes and turns and are riding comfortably in both directions, go for it! You can go a lot of different directions when it comes to your next board, so feel free to give us a ring or hop on chat. We'll listen to where you ride and what your goals are, and then we can make some suggestions we think you'll be happy with.
A lot of people who ride on inland lakes are jumping into a downwind board as their second board. Others are in conditions better suited to mid-length boards. Your location, conditions, and riding style will determine which boards are going to work best for you, so we can't make any recommendations in this blog.
Summary
The main thing to remember is to hang on to your first board until you're comfortable on your second foil. We've found time and again that the people who do this are the ones who progress the fastest. As with learning any new skill, taking things out of order or skipping steps only prolongs the learning process, so when you feel ready for your next step, reach out to us to get dialed in on what should work best for you. We're always happy to share the stoke!
F-One x Brainchild | Pulling the Trigger on Sustainability
A few weeks ago, we highlighted F-One's commitment to sustainability, so it should come as no surprise that they've teamed up with Brainchild to produce their latest kite, the Trigger. Its bold look is matched by its big air ability, but that's not the only reason to love it. It also makes full use of Brainchild's eco-friendly technologies.
What Is the Trigger?
Legendary kite designer and Brainchild founder Ralf Grosel is responsible for this kite that is ready to visit the clouds. Although it's a new design, you'll still recognize F-One's DNA in it and feel right at home while enjoying big boosts, lofty hangtime, and an intuitive feel that'll let you focus on doing your thing while you're airborne.
The trigger features a new panel layout. The wingtip panels are joined together into a single panel, as is the main panel between the tip and the S2 strut. This enhances the aerodynamics of the kite and reduces the number of seams, decreasing its weight and responsiveness.
It's got a high aspect ratio and five-strut frame for fast response. The steering pressure is light, and so is the kite itself, thanks to F-One's collab with Brainchild.
What Does Brainchild Bring to the Trigger?
If you're familiar with Brainchild's contributions to other kites, you're probably already excited about the benefits they can bring to this big air kite. Pro-weld seams are lighter and stiffer than sewn seams and use less materials, which is a win for both the kite and Mother Nature.
It also gets the digital printing treatment, which means the sky is the limit when it comes to graphics. If you want to stand out on the water (and in the sky), nothing can compare. It also adds less weight to the kite and uses far less water than traditional dyes. And since every color is printed on white canopy, there is much less waste in unused cutoffs from multiple fabric colors. Oh, and the canopy uses 48 percent recycled materials, too.
"I think my general goal is to make unique products, to do something which is unique in the way that you have added value," says designer Ralf Grosel. "Over here, it is the essence of everything I have been doing my entire career in a way that I created the dream spot, the dream environment, for me to be innovative for the next 20 years. People are enjoying what we are doing, and I think this is also a very important heritage for F-ONE: making products which are putting a smile on the client's face, because that's what this is all about."
Great Expectations
F-One's team riders have been doing well in competitions. In fact, Maxime Chabloz just took the Freestyle World Champion title in the the GKA Freestyle Kite World Cup tour. F-One's Jaime Overbeek specializes in big air and can't wait to see where the Trigger takes him at competitions in 2025.
Gift Ideas for Your Favorite Foil Driver | 8 Accessories They'll Love!
Has a Foil Drive fan in your life been good this year and Santa needs to stuff their stocking with only the best? Or maybe they've got a birthday coming up and you want to surprise them with something they'll use every time they head out for a session. Ryan from MACkite has some easy gift ideas that will make sure they know they're special!
Dielectric Battery Grease
Foil Drives ship with a little tube of this, but you need to reapply it to the battery terminals regularly. It's something that gets used up, and this 250g tube of Dielectric Battery Grease will make sure your Foil Driver is set for a very long time. They'll be delighted knowing they won't need to worry about running out.
CWS Foil Drive Screws
The CWS Foil Drive Screws are handy for getting out on the water faster. The track nut is connected to the screw, so once you slide the track nut into the slots in your board, you'll have the screws sticking up so that you can simply drop your Foil Drive and mast onto them. You'll be able to easily slide the whole thing back and forth to find the exact position you want and then tighten it down with no tools using the included wing nuts. It's a real time and frustration saver and fits perfectly into a stocking.
Mast Track Foam Insert
The Mast Track Foam Insert not only reduces drag while you're driving up to speed, but it actually helps the signal from your remote get through the board and to the Foil Drive control unit. You'll need a set for each board you Foil Drive with, and they do sometimes get lost, so it's always nice to have a spare pack on hand.
Kaohi Foil Drive Remote Wrist Leash
The remote does come with a leash, but the Kaohi Foil Drive Remote Wrist Leash is an upgraded version that's even sturdier and more comfortable. It's a perfect example of something that a Foil Drive rider might not splurge on for themselves, but will definitely appreciate receiving as a gift. It's a standard padded surf style leash that wraps around your wrist and closes securely with velcro.
Surf Ears 4.0
Surf Ears 4.0 Watersports Ear Plugs are a must-have if you ride in cold water. Surfer's ear is caused by exposing the ear canal to cold water, and the body tries to protect the eardrum by creating bony growths that partially close off the ear canal, which can affect your hearing.
These ear plugs keep the water out and reduce the noise of the wind and crashing waves while still allowing you to hear well. Keeping the water out can also help reduce ear infections, and if you like to push yourself and take some hard impacts into the water, these can help prevent blown eardrums as well. These ear plugs are a great safety accessory and include multiple tips to fit any ear.
Foil Drive Battery Checker
Is that battery almost charged? How much time do I have left on it? This little Inline Battery Checker plugs into your battery to give you a quick reading of its remaining power while charging or while at the beach. It plugs directly into the battery and will show you what the charge is, and then you can plug the charger into that to monitor your charge level as well.
Foil Drive Fast Charger
If you want to maximize your time on the water and minimize your time waiting for your batteries to charge, the Foil Drive Fast Charger is the ticket. This 8 amp charger is going to get your battery ready to go a lot faster.
Spare Foil Drive Battery
Of course, it's even better to have an extra battery you can use while the first one is on the charger or simply to swap out right at the beach. If you're giving this as a gift, make sure you know whether they're using the Max or the Slim unit. Most people are using the Max, but a Max battery won't fit in a Slim unit, so double check that.
These are Ryan's top picks for his Foil Drive wish list. They're all items that will make a session flow a bit easier. Feel free to reach out to MACkite's elves if you want some extra guidance in your gift-giving any time of the year.
The Ultimate Wing Foil Spare Parts Kit | Everything You Need for the Beach
They say experience is the best teacher and that necessity is the mother of invention. And after blowing a few sessions with forgotten, lost, loaned, broken, or dropped parts, we have learned that we needed to create a kit to cover every contingency that might keep us off the water. Behold: The Ultimate Wing Foil Spare Parts kit.
Why Do I Need This?
Ryan and Jeff have been there, and perhaps you have, too. You're at the beach, you pull out your wing, foil, and board, and then you realize your harness line is still on the big wing you rode last time, which is not the one you grabbed for today's nuking conditions. Or you fumbled a screw, saw exactly where it fell, and then spent the next ten minutes sifting sand before acknowledging it's now a sacrifice to the Spirit of the Beach.
Or maybe it was a buddy of yours. You're out enjoying the stoke together, and then he gets pulled off his board by a gust and puts his foil through his canopy. Ouch! As he paddles in, you wonder if you'd be a jerk to keep riding alone. If only there were some way you could help...
This session-saving kit can fix all those situations and more. We like to think of it as insurance. (Well, we would, if we hadn't actually needed to use it so many times.) It's a game-changer to know right where everything is, and it's one less thing to worry about. And maybe you'll even get to be the hero who saves someone else's session.
What Is It?
We've made a list of all the things we ever wished we had and didn't and the Ultimate Wing Foil Spare Parts Kit is the result. So what's in this magical box of goodness?
M6 and M8 board connection hardware (Torx)
T-handle T30 Torx driver
T-handle T40 Torx driver
Wrist wing leash
Ozone harness line
PKS boom or handle loops
2x Pigtails
2x Pigtails plus ball
2ft black ripstop tape
2ft white ripstop tape
Screw lube
Pump adaptors:
High pressure SUP
A2
Boston
Reedin/Maxx Flow
Duotone
And of course the case itself
A lot of this stuff is self-explanatory. You've got spare screw and nut hardware and tools to make sure you can attach your board to your mast. A lot of people will leave their foil put together and just attach it to their board at the beach, so that's the hardware that goes missing the most. Or maybe you grabbed your pack of M8 when you needed the M6 for this setup. Now you're covered. There's even room to toss in some Allen keys if your other hardware uses a hex head.
Then you've got the stuff that attaches you to your gear. Any of these things can wear out or accidentally get left on a different wing. Or maybe you borrowed a wing and it didn't have one in the bag. There's a nice wrist leash, a harness line, boom or handle loops, and some pigtails to lark's-head onto.
The harness line is a necessity for longer sessions, so we included a spare. The boom/handle loops will let you attach that harness line to your boom or handle. We really like them because they don't leave an indentation on the grip. And the pigtails are so handy for using a lark's head to attach wing or board leashes to your harness.
The ripstop tape is great for minor repairs or as a temporary fix for larger tears. Remember to get any sand off, rinse the wing if you're in salt water, and make sure it's dry before applying the tape. If you have any questions, call Jeff. He's pretty experienced at patching up his wing at the beach...
The screw lube is nice to have, especially for our salt water friends. It helps protect your hardware from corrosion and makes it easier to get your screws back out.
We also tossed in most any pump adapter you'll need. It's surprising how often we need to lend these out at the beach.
We stowed all this in a really nice case with a handle and a lid that latches securely shut so you can toss it in your vehicle. Then you'll always have it with you when you head out for a session. We put a lot in, but there's still room for you to customize it with anything that you would like to add. Perhaps you want to start keeping all your hardware in here so that everything's together in one spot. Or maybe you'd like to add a spare set of your foil's hardware. We'd love to have included that too, but since it's not universal and there are so many options, it wasn't practical or cost-effective to do. But you can get it as an add-on when you order your kit.
Fill it up and make it your own, and it may save your bacon or make you someone's hero at the beach. Happy foiling, and remember to share the stoke!
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